by Bailey Coldwell
When puppies are learning how to interact with other dogs, they are likely to experiment with unwanted behaviors. They often exhibit behaviors such as biting too hard on the other dog’s ears, tail, and neck. Often, the puppy does not initially recognize signs that the other dog doesn’t want to play. Puppies will bark at or jump on the other dog. Young puppies also tend not to take natural breaks during play and often play nonstop. Should we step in, or do we let them “work it out themselves”, waiting for the older dog to correct the puppy intensely?
We want to step in to help the dogs learn what is appropriate during play. The puppy should learn dog body language and understand what “no thank you” looks like in dog body language before the other dog ends up snapping and causing a dog fight. When an altercation happens, we are quick to punish the dog who ends up snapping. However, the dog was trying to ask for space, and they weren’t getting it, making them feel like they needed to display intense behaviors to get the space they needed.
If we allow a puppy to pester a dog, the dog might end up tolerating this. However, the next dog that your puppy interacts with might not be so tolerant. If a puppy learns that biting one dog’s ears is okay, for example, the next dog the puppy interacts with could not have this same patience. This leads to injury of the puppy, who is confused because they have been taught it is okay to play this way.
Likewise, it isn’t good practice for the dog to have to just accept being beaten up by the puppy or feel they need to snap at the puppy. This will lead to a hindered relationship between the two of them. It can cause the dog to dread having the puppy near them because the interactions are not enjoyable for them.
The idea of letting dogs “work it out themselves” stems from an outdated study on alpha dogs. Handlers believed that the dogs needed to establish a hierarchy within the pack. The original research that previously supported this logic has since been debunked. The study examined how wolves in captivity behaved, which we now know was not a realistic representation. The wolves in captivity were not from the same wild pack. Additionally, the extra stress of captivity led them to act out of character. Normal wild wolf packs don't actually have hierarchies based on which wolf is dominant. Rather, the hierarchy is family-based, with the breeding parents serving as providers and guiding the family toward success. It is not a fighting ring where a wolf tries to dominate the other.
With dog interactions, we don’t see an alpha or submissive dog. We see dogs with varying temperaments and backgrounds. For example, a dog that some might believe is “dominant/alpha” could be larger, younger, more energetic, have more confidence, and/or the parents might have been more confident. Additionally, the dog might have been allowed to interact in inappropriate ways with other dogs in the past. Likewise, a dog that some might believe is more “submissive” could be smaller, less energetic, more fearful, have fearful parents, and/or have had negative experiences with other dogs pushing their boundaries in the past.
Now that we know we want to step in, when should we do so?
How do we step in?
What do I mean when I mention taking breaks during interactions? You can call the dog to you, encourage good behavior (like a sit or a touch), give them a treat, and then allow them to play again. You can take out a tug toy and play with your dog for a few seconds. You can bring your dog outside or to a different area and let them sniff around without the other dog. Or, if one of the dogs seems too overstimulated or is nervous, you can end the play session. Taking a break is just doing something to help bring the energy levels down and to check in on how each dog is feeling.
Keep in mind that if the personalities or ages of the dogs vary significantly, the goal will likely be to get them to coexist nicely together, rather than being playmates. Dogs don’t need to be identical in age, size, or personality to play. However, it does increase the chances of them being successful playmates if we find dogs who are more similar to them than they are different. I usually recommend that if handlers are bringing a puppy into their home with a middle-aged or senior dog, plan on finding a vaccinated younger dog or puppy for them to have playdates with.
When allowing dogs to interact, we want to make sure our energy isn’t adding any stress. It can be nerve-wracking when first attempting interactions with a new dog. But if you act this way, the dogs are going to feel and act this way as well. Dogs mirror our energy very well, which is both cool and something to be mindful of. As with most of our experiences with dogs, we want to try to be carefree. We don’t want to yank our dogs away after just 1 second of interaction, we don’t want to yell, and we don’t want to panic. Likewise, we don’t want it to be a free-for-all where one dog is terrified or upset and the other dog is allowed to keep pestering until a fight breaks out. We are looking for a middle ground. Composed, happy, and with us nearby to manage as needed.
I hope this helps you when it is time for playdates with other dogs or introductions to dogs. Check out our “Preparing for my puppy” program and then the module titled “New and existing pet introductions” for more help, as well as our recorded “Dog interaction and introductions” class. Be aware of dog body language, be ready to help teach them what to do, and allow them to have fun.
